Just 15 years ago, Australian law prohibited the manufacturers of skincare products from claiming the benefits products might offer in their advertising. These days the efficacy of a new class of skincare product called cosmeceuticals can be scientifically proven, brushing aside that legislation with hard evidence.

Cosmo what?

The term ‘cosmeceuticals' refers to a class of cosmetic products with pharmaceutical benefits. Cosmeceuticals are topical skincare formulations containing active ingredients which enable them to act on the skin's cellular structure. In some cases such as exfoliants, this action is limited to the surface of the skin, while other formulations can penetrate to the cellular level and enhance or inhibit natural activities.

Cosmeceutical products are usually used at home and incorporated into a regular skincare regime. They can help alleviate the symptoms of ageing such as fine lines, pigmentation, skin tone and texture.

Many brands have poured millions of dollars into research and development, employing highly skilled biochemists to create new products delivered in formulations designed to enhance their capabilities and the appearance of the skin at the same time.

What to look for in cosmeceutical products are antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, exfoliants, skin-lightening ingredients and intercellular substances (that mimic skin structure). For the products to work, these need to be at sufficient concentrations and synergies to allow them to retain their active properties.

Key ingredients

Cosmeceutical products contain ingredients that induce healing and other changes in skin cells. Research shows that benefits for the skin can also be obtained from plant extracts and essential oils as well as vitamins, enzymes, phytochemicals and more.

Antioxidants reduce free-radical damage and inflammation, counteracting cellular damage, collagen destruction and immune suppression. Antioxidants in combination, studies suggest, can exert a cumulative synergistic action on the skin that is more effective than single ingredient formulations.

Cell-communicating ingredients use receptor sites or cellular pathways to interact with skin cells to signal them to function optimally.

Retinoids, which are derivatives of Vitamin A, are the best known. They act as antioxidants and neutralise the free radicals that result from exposure to ultraviolet light. In addition, they increase cellular turnover, stimulate a thickening of the epidermis and promote the removal of excess pigment.

Other cell-communicating ingredients include peptides, which were developed for use in skincare to either increase the production of collagen or to reduce the breakdown of collagen.

Niacinamide is a water-soluble B-complex vitamin that has anti-inflammatory properties and can assist with conditions such as acne vulgaris.

Exfoliants encourage surface skin cells to shed, mimicking the function of young skin and increasing collagen production. The primary reason for skin cell build-up is sun damage. Exfoliant ingredients include alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, and beta hydroxyacids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is also used as a skin conditioner and is especially useful in patients with oily skin and acne.

Skin-lightening ingredients inhibit melanin formation at a molecular level, reducing the appearance of brown discoloration, and include hydroquinone, arbutin, azelaic acid, some forms of Vitamin C, rucinol and glycyrrhetinic acid.

Intercellular substances are ingredients that exist naturally in skin and can be depleted by health, ageing and environmental factors. Ingredients such as ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and glycosaminoglycans are key to skin function and should be included in moisturisers if they are to be effective in promoting skin functionality. Hyaluronic acid is known to hydrate and moisturise the skin from the inside, helping to smooth out wrinkles.

Do they work?

This cavalcade of scientific terms may muddle the senses of the average consumer, who simply wants to know if what they are buying works. A 2008 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology analysed several cosmeceutical ingredients to see how successful they are in targeting specific skin imperfections related to age. The study indicated, for example, that skin surface irregularity can be improved through the topical application of niacin, and that the appearance of fine lines can be diminished with the application of moisturisers containing engineered peptides and retinoids.

While it seems that this new class of skincare products can indeed improve the skin, there is still little to communicate this certainty to consumers. A lot of brands are now claiming their products are cosmeceuticals but there are as yet no regulations governing usage of this term. Natural cosmetics can by certified for content and production standards by the Association of German Industries and Trading Firms for pharmaceuticals, health care products, food supplements and personal hygiene products (BDIH) - recognised as the highest certification authority in the business - which affixes its ‘Certified Natural Cosmetics' seal on the packaging.

While the Australian Therapeutic Goods Administration regulates ‘products at the interface between cosmetic and therapeutic goods' (i.e. cosmeceuticals) and most manufacturers belong to self-regulating industry bodies, it is always safest to seek the advice of a dermatologist or skincare professional.