Urbanites are well aware of the advantages of living in the city but it's not called The Big Smoke for nothing. Our skin is at the mercy of pollution just as much as our waterways.

When environmental poster boy Robert F Kennedy Jr grabs the mic at a skincare launch, embarking on a passionate riff about pollution's effects on everything from inner-city asthma levels to the mercury in the fish on attendees' plates, we know there's a reason to sit up and pay attention.

The market is becoming increasingly aware of the hazards of urban lifestyle on our skin and the cosmetics industry has followed suit, introducing a new crop of products laced with super-antioxidants and grime-fighting city combatants. Where scientists have seen a hole in the ozone, beauty companies have seen an opening in the cosmetic market.

Spotting city skin is easy, pardon the pun. It's dull and congested with blocked pores and dehydrated with patches of dryness. Stress has depleted the skin of nutrients and it's been over-exposed to late nights, alcohol, tobacco and other stimulants. It's choked with smoke and ragged thanks to air-conditioning, other major contributors to poor skin. However, by protecting ourselves from ultraviolet radiation and photoageing by using the correct formulations and the most effective method to deliver our skincare, while supplementing with vitamins and anti-oxidants, we will get the best results.

Skin is made up of tiny pores that ensure the skin can breathe and regulate body temperature, among other tasks, but they also filter out the grime and debris associated with everyday life. Of course, that means that we city slickers have skin coated with a fine layer of nasty toxins from the pollution.

According to a new University of California, Berkeley study, skin ailments are most certainly linked to air pollution in cities. It found ozone rapidly strips Vitamin E, an important component of healthy skin, from the uppermost skin layer. Skin conditions aggravated in urban environments include atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and other ailments which generate itchy, red, inflamed and scaly skin.

The researchers examined the stratum corneum, a thin layer at the surface that accounts for less than five percent of the skin. Long considered an inert layer of dead skin, the stratum corneum is now receiving considerable attention as the gateway to underlying body tissues.

‘Skincare companies know if you have dry skin, it's your stratum corneum that's in trouble,' says Berkeley researcher Dr Jens Thiele. ‘Everything you apply on the skin has to pass through that layer.'

The urban environment causes the destruction of the skin's natural barrier function, which regulates the movement of materials in and out of the skin. It is also thought the increased formation of harmful chemicals from the breakdown of the skin's fatty lipids triggers an inflammatory response in underlying skin layers.

Dr Neil Sadick, a clinical professor of dermatology in New York, agrees. ‘With the changes in the ozone layer we're getting more instant ultraviolet radiation, as well as more damage from environmental pollutants. In my practice we're definitely seeing more patients, and younger ones, with damaged skin. To repair it, and to guard against further threats, the two major factors necessary are a broad-spectrum sunscreen and a high-potency antioxidant formula.'

Back to basics

Fear not - it's not quite as dire as it sounds. There are several simple things you can do to equalise the effects of city living on your skin. First up, your epidermis will thank you every day for a basic twice-daily skincare routine. Get skin in tip-top condition by cleansing, toning and moisturising every morning before applying makeup (it should go without saying that falling asleep with your makeup on is a no-no). Exfoliation to slough away dead cells and brighten the complexion can be done at home, or with microdermabrasion or a peel at a salon to remove surface debris.

Improving the skin's resistance to pollution is the name of the game. Use sun protection and a moisturiser rich with ingredients to improve the skin's surface strength, such as shea butter or ceramides. Cosmetics are often blamed for clogging pores but it can actually protect against pollution because it provides a fine layer of resistance, so don't steer clear of your makeup bag. Keep hand cream in your bag to soothe chapped paws.

Pollution solutions

Just think of a sliced apple turning brown to visualise the urban impact of oxidisation on your skin. Research is increasingly pointing the blame for ageing and illness towards oxidative cell damage caused by the environment. Here is where antioxidants step in to defend the skin, providing skin with a fighting chance of repairing existing damage and defending itself against future ageing.

Antioxidants are compounds that counteract the damaging effects of free radicals on cell structures, as well as cellular DNA.

Free radicals accelerate the ageing process and are the result of oxygen molecules being oxidised, but they can also be created by exposure to various environmental factors, smoking and UV radiation. They are unstable cells that, if left unchecked, can compromise your health and potentially lead to cancer.

When pollution damages the skin, the cells release superoxide free radicals and other molecules that unleash their energy at random, like a stray bullet. For years the leading antioxidants in both topical beauty products and oral supplements have been Vitamins A, C and E. The list now also includes those such as alpha lipoic acid, idebenone, resveratrol, myobenol C and coffeeberry, many of which are found in the latest grime-fighting products - from the cosmetic giants to the natural and organic boutique lines.

Inside out

We all know that a girls' night out, replete with brightly hued cocktails and a spin on the dance floor, is far more fun than an early night and the requisite 1.5 litres of water a day. However, a few small steps can go a long way in improving general skin condition.

Getting your fill of H2O has a renowned effect on improving skin condition through hydration while washing out toxins and chemicals from our digestive systems. Resist coffee to pep you up; drinking green tea and eating foods with Vitamin C can help protect skin from further damage instead.

Cutting down on alcohol and sugars are also considered beneficial for overall health as well as repairing stressed-out skin that is deprived of vital nutrients. Antioxidants have proven benefits when used on the surface of the skin but vitamin supplements also provide the skin-boosting compounds.

Ageing gracefully

City skin is at the mercy of a combination of negative elements - environmental pollution and second-hand smoke, not to mention the stress incurred in the peak hour rush to work. None of these is conducive to helping you age gracefully.

Working women in their 30s are particularly susceptible to city skin. This age group is probably the most under pressure but 30-somethings' skin is also changing, with their bodies producing less collagen and elastin. No products can really turn back time; arguably only certain surgical nips and tucks can achieve a significantly younger looking appearance However, through a recipe of a healthy, balanced diet, good sleep and exercise it is possible to help your body stay in optimum condition.

Non-invasive treatments at a medi-spa such as chemical peels and skin resurfacing treatments are increasingly popular and give visible results for those sporting some signs of ageing. Targeted anti-ageing formulas can also fight back against free radicals and offer a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.

It's impractical for most of us to forsake our beloved concrete jungle for a breath of fresh air in the country. Between car pollution, smoke, sun and the cold we may appear to be fighting a losing battle with the effects of environmental damage, but by using this straightforward advice we can help bring our skin back to life.

Daily Dose

The answer to turning back the hands of time isn't as simple as taking a dip into the fountain of youth or a slathering on a ‘miracle in a jar' face cream. It's a question of addressing inside as well as out. Taking the right vitamins for skin care can help fight skin conditions as well as the ageing process.

Many topical formulations contain very low concentrations of antioxidants, which are not well absorbed by the skin. The three antioxidants that have been proven to decrease the effect of the sun on the skin and actually prevent further damage are selenium and Vitamins E and C.

Selenium
The mineral selenium can help protect the body from cancers, promote tissue elasticity and slow down the ageing and hardening of tissues through oxidation. The best dietary sources of selenium include wholegrain cereals, seafood, garlic and eggs. Daily supplements of 50 to 200 micrograms or applied topically in the form L-selenomethionine can also do the trick.

Vitamin E
We all know of the soothing properties of Vitamin E in improving skin quality, but there's a lot more behind that door. Vitamin E is the most important antioxidant in protecting cell membranes and preventing damage to membrane-associated enzymes. New laboratory research has shown that it helps inactivate free radicals, reduces sunburn cells, chronic UV-induced damage and the production of cancer-causing cells.

It can be found in vegetable oils, especially sunflower oil, grains such as wheatgerm, brown rice and oats, nuts, dairy products, meats and margarine. Supplement with 400 milligrams per day of natural Vitamin E.

Vitamin C
Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant found naturally in the skin and is depleted when the skin is exposed to the sun, pollution or smoking. Minimal UV exposure can decrease levels in the skin by 30 percent, while exposure to the ozone of city pollution can decrease the level by 55 percent.

Vitamin C is important in repairing free radicals and preventing them from turning into cancers and accelerating ageing. Topical use can prevent the consequences of prolonged sun exposure which can lead to skin cancer and is most commonly found in the form L-ascorbic acid. Unfortunately, this form is a highly active antioxidant that breaks down immediately when exposed to oxygen, thus losing stability rapidly and becoming less effective.

It is recommended that individuals consume 500 to 1000 milligrams of Vitamin C per day. Most people will get their recommended daily allowance if they eat more than five servings of fruit, vegetables and juices, but we all can benefit by taking supplements or vitamins for skin care.

Bella Beauty Magazine #17