Scientific forecasts predict we will live longer but how can we ensure that we look good while we're doing it?

In this era when 40 is the new 30 and 60 is the new 40, can our faces and bodies match these revised signposts of extended youth? According to a 2002 report by the European Commission, longevity in both developed and less developed countries is projected to increase by between nine and 11 years by 2050. More recent research suggests more people in developed countries are reaching the age 90.

Without a doubt, we are going to live longer but what's the chance of really looking 30 at 40, let alone 60 at 40?

Surprisingly, perhaps, the outlook is more positive than you might think. Already rejuvenation procedures are merging with beauty treatments and pharmaceutical science is becoming part of skincare product formulations. We are discovering that biological ageing can be slowed by healthy lifestyles, and environmental ageing can be managed by counteracting negative effects. This can be as simple as applying sun block or following a detoxification regime.

Increasingly, research into developing new skin treatments is based on replicating or stimulating the body's own functions. Many new products contain active ingredients that occur naturally in the skin's structure, encourage their production or counteract the negative effects of oxidation. Oxidation is responsible for the creation of free radicals and their destructive chain reactions that cause outward signs of ageing as well damage to cell structures, contributing to serious ageing illnesses.

Magic formulas

These cosmeceutical products contain ingredients that induce healing and other changes in skin cells. Alpha and beta-hydroxy acids and hyaluronic and kojic acids, allantoin, collagen, liposomes, as well as vitamins and other antioxidants are just some of the ingredients that act at a structural level on the skin. and new research is uncovering others all the time. Gwyneth Paltrow has been spotted toting a carry bag for the Ultra Lux 9 skin cream, which contains snake venom, supposedly for a topical Botox effect.

In the field of anti-ageing medicine, hormones such as dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), melatonin, cortisol, thyroid hormone and the growth hormone progesterone are being investigated for their roles in treating age-related conditions. We know ageing is caused by internal hormonal changes, but which comes first? Do we age because they change or do they change because we age?

Hormones are strong chemicals produced from cholesterol, amino acids and proteins from endocrine glands. They work as messengers between our brains and our organs. Already, replacement therapy of sex hormones is commonly used by both men and women.

Some of these hormones are popping up in skincare products too: notably the sex hormones estrogen and progesterone and the growth hormone DHEA. Skin and connective tissue-building derivatives of human growth hormone, used in steroids by bodybuilders, are also being used in skin creams. In the search for products that promote tissue regeneration, placental extracts are being used in topical products and Oprah Winfrey has promoted a SkinMedica face cream on her show, with an active ingredient, tissue nutrient solution (TNS), derived from circumcised babies' foreskins.

And the deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) spiral is being unravelled to provide solutions too. Through identification of an individual's genetic makeup, genomic diets are set to become part of the anti-ageing lexicon, while the use of stem cells for skin and organ regeneration is currently being initiated. One United States company, Lab 21, takes swabs from buyers to customise their skincare products according to their genetic profile. While scientists dismiss this as a mere marketing device, it is more importantly an indication of a future reality as products become increasingly prescriptive in their formulations.

Practical procedures

In line with the advances in topical skincare products, anti-ageing treatments are being constantly refined and updated. What used to be dealt with by surgery can now be addressed by non-invasive procedures and the good news is that they involve less and less discomfort or down time.

Injectables

The use of botulinum toxin, the most famous brand being Botox, is being researched for more diverse uses, such as the relief of facial drooping and applications to other areas of the body besides the face, and the development of longer lasting formulations.

Similarly, the applications for dermal fillers have extended from lip plumping to eliminating wrinkles and replacing lost volume in the skin. Significantly, the most recent formulations mimic the consistency of natural tissue and can be used to correct fine lines. Permanent fillers are also available.

Skin rejuvenation

Resurfacing

Microdermabrasion blasts the skin with tiny crystals to remove the upper layers of the skin. It improves texture and acne scarring.

Chemical peel treatments use mild acids to strip away layers of aged skin. The strength of the peel depends on the severity of the conditions to be improved.

Electrosurgical resurfacing, sometimes called cold ablation, involves the use of a micro-electrical radio frequency that delivers a pulse of energy to the skin. It is used to correct moderate superficial skin damage.

Thermage uses a heated laser that causes collagen under the skin to tighten. It is effective for tightening the skin on the face as well as other areas of the body, and is frequently used as a non-surgical alternative to a facelift procedure.

Light therapies

Laser resurfacing uses a high-energy light beam of light to vaporise the upper skin layers and thus reduce the signs of skin aging. It is effective for reducing wrinkles, correcting pigmentation and improving skin tone.

Photo rejuvenation targets deeper skin tissues in order to reduce the signs of ageing. It uses intense pulses of filtered light that penetrate the outer skin layers without damaging them and stimulate the skin's own healing responses, including collagen production.

Body contouring treatments

Lipodissolve involves the injection of mild medications and enzymes into areas with unwanted fat. These chemicals cause the fat to break down and it is flushed from the system through natural elimination processes. Lipodissolve is effective for toning the face (especially the chin and neck area) as well as the body and can also help reduce cellulite.

Mesotherapy is a similar process involving microinjections of amino acids, medications and holistic compounds to dissolve fatty tissue.

Ultrasound is one of the latest innovations in non-invasive body contouring. It uses focused ultrasound waves that target stubborn fat deposits on the hips, thighs and stomach. The computer-controlled sound waves destroy the structure of the fat cells and the fat is naturally eliminated.

Endermologie is a mechanised form of massage that temporarily reduces the appearance of cellulite. A handheld massaging head delivers intermittent suction and rolling to the area being treated and the soft tissues below. The patient wears a body stocking during the treatment.

Lifestyle factors

It's never too early to start practising habits that will help you stay as young as you feel. Everyone knows they should drink plenty of water, have ample sleep and eat unprocessed foods rich in vitamins A, E, C and other vital nutrients. Fresh fruit and vegetables, especially yellow-coloured ones, help combat the cell oxidation that allows the development of free radicals. Foods with antioxidant properties control compounds such as lipoic acid and help retard ageing.

Eating four to six meals composed of around 40 percent protein, 40 percent complex carbohydrates and 20 percent fat, no larger than your outspread hand, is the recommended daily intake. While between 10 and 20 percent of the population take oral supplements, research evidence strongly suggests that vitamins and micronutrients are much more effective ingested in natural foods.

Some research suggests that limited food intake improves longevity and certainly obesity is a significant health risk. Try to maintain the recommended weight range for your height and age.

Avoiding the excessive consumption of toxins such as alcohol and drugs is a given, and smoking is a complete no-no. The substance that everyone needs is actually a good sun block!

Exercise is the other key factor in offsetting physical ageing. Aerobic exercise such as swimming, walking or jogging improves cardiovascular health and keeps the metabolism functioning at a high level to help maintain a healthy weight. Resistance training (weight-bearing exercise) builds muscle and helps maintain bone density. Exercise disciplines that foster physical flexibility and mental tranquillity, such as yoga, Pilates or transcendental meditation provide an additional benefit in relieving stress.

In summary, your anti-ageing armoury includes your bathroom shelf, your fridge and your trainers. Use them wisely and you will age gracefully.

Bella Beauty Magazine #9